Climbed up the street to the Puerta de Bisagara Nueva which was the main entrance. Two circular towers stand at the outer gate and two towers form the inner gate.
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| Originally built by the Moors in the 10th century they called it Bab al-Saqra. |
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| Flying colors. |
We continued climbing
and climbing and climbing until we got to the main plaza.
Looked for the Santa Cruz Museum only to realize later we walked all around it. We even walked up to the door but didn't
go in. Oh, well. Instead we headed to the Alcazar. Although closed for
renovation, we had a nice view across the river. There is a forbidden love story of a
Prince and a Jewish girl. I'm going to have to research the legends of Toledo when we get home.
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| Famous Toledo steel. My name is Inigo Montoya. You killed my father. Prepare to die. |
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| Another gate halfway up to the plaza. |
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| Iglesia de Santiago Arrabel |
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| Narrow streets part for a partial view of the Holy Cathedral of Toledo. |
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| Picturesque planters and stone walls. |
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| View of the Castillo de San Servando from the Alcazar |
Catedral Primada Santa María de Toledo
Sanctuary. The columns are the size of redwoods. They're massive. It's dark and cool but not musty inside. The high altar and grill are covered in gold. The choir stalls have alabaster & wood carvings. Even the choir seats (misercord) are carved underneath with various sins. If you walk clockwise around the "U" you will see carvings of different people from the bible beginning with Adam & Eve. You will also see the cities that were "reclaimed" to Catholicism although the city scapes aren't realistic. Two pipe organs loom above the choir. Several pipes extend out. I would assume these sound like trumpets. The chapter house held paintings or pictures of the cardinals of Toledo.
Sacristy. The sacristy is almost a mini Prado: Many paintings by El Greco, a Rubens, a Titian, some Ribera, etc. They are hung all over the walls just like you would in your home. I could get nose to nose with the Rubens. It wasn't behind glass! There were three El Greco paintings out for restoration.
Treasury. We decided to not wait in line. We could see the huge "icon" they carry through the streets at festivals. It glittered from afar.
Sanctuary. The columns are the size of redwoods. They're massive. It's dark and cool but not musty inside. The high altar and grill are covered in gold. The choir stalls have alabaster & wood carvings. Even the choir seats (misercord) are carved underneath with various sins. If you walk clockwise around the "U" you will see carvings of different people from the bible beginning with Adam & Eve. You will also see the cities that were "reclaimed" to Catholicism although the city scapes aren't realistic. Two pipe organs loom above the choir. Several pipes extend out. I would assume these sound like trumpets. The chapter house held paintings or pictures of the cardinals of Toledo.
Sacristy. The sacristy is almost a mini Prado: Many paintings by El Greco, a Rubens, a Titian, some Ribera, etc. They are hung all over the walls just like you would in your home. I could get nose to nose with the Rubens. It wasn't behind glass! There were three El Greco paintings out for restoration.
Treasury. We decided to not wait in line. We could see the huge "icon" they carry through the streets at festivals. It glittered from afar.
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| Toledo Cathedral |
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| Lion |
We were getting hungry and stumbled across the Meson El Pasadizo. We decided to try the menu of the day: thinly sliced grilled beef, salad, fries, bread & water. Only 10 euros each. Best tasting steak of the trip! I think eating outside makes everything taste better. Dessert was ice cream sprinkled with heath bar bits.
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| Andrea tucks in with gusto. |
Shopping for Fans
One of my favorite encounters of the day happened in a lace and fan shop. the sales lady helped us look at multiple fans and discussed the merits of each. All are made in Toledo. Rae's orange fan was hand cut. We bought Alyssa & Mom lace fans. The saleslady let me practice my weak Spanish. She even taught me some new Spanish words. We've decided that southern Spain is similar to the South in America. It's filled with friendly people who are ready to help.
One of my favorite encounters of the day happened in a lace and fan shop. the sales lady helped us look at multiple fans and discussed the merits of each. All are made in Toledo. Rae's orange fan was hand cut. We bought Alyssa & Mom lace fans. The saleslady let me practice my weak Spanish. She even taught me some new Spanish words. We've decided that southern Spain is similar to the South in America. It's filled with friendly people who are ready to help.
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| The fan lady and Andrea. |
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| A retirement home in the hills? |
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| I think several families agree with Andrea. |
Jewish Synagogue and Museum
The synagogue was decorated by Muslim masons (stone sculptors). They had stayed after the Reconquista. Inside the museum were artifacts from Canaanite days. We saw a scroll of Old Testament book of Esther. Several different kinds of menorah - later versions were in a straight line with the big candlestick at one end. The walls were covered in tapestries. No flash allowed. We went up to the court of women on the second story. They actually had a great view, maybe the best in the house.
Yummy
Toledo is made for wandering. We stumbled upon a street that had candy and pastries on all sides. It was like being in the movie Chitty, Chitty, Bang, Bang! We decided to try marzipan since Toledo is famous for it. Andrea had a cafe con leche and I had some water. We tried five different kinds of marzipan.
The synagogue was decorated by Muslim masons (stone sculptors). They had stayed after the Reconquista. Inside the museum were artifacts from Canaanite days. We saw a scroll of Old Testament book of Esther. Several different kinds of menorah - later versions were in a straight line with the big candlestick at one end. The walls were covered in tapestries. No flash allowed. We went up to the court of women on the second story. They actually had a great view, maybe the best in the house.
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| The Jewish synagogue and museum. |
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| Moorish artisans helped to design and construct this building. |
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| The book of Esther (?) |
Iglesia Santo Tomé
Passed right by the Iglesia Santo Tomé, but we quickly turned around. It's tucked away on a side street. Inside is El Greco's Burial of Count Orgaz. Incredible work of art. El Greco is in it as is his son. I love how he controls the way your eye reads the story. We spent 10-15 minutes in there. For a few minutes, Andrea stood in front of it all by herself. She loved it ... since it's her favorite work of art. Alas, no photos. Flash or not.
When Count Orgaz died in 1312 he left a substantial amount of money to Santo Tomé for its enlargement and adornment. However the money didn't immediately go into the designated coffers. Two hundred years later after Andrea Nunez, a priest, sued for the money it was finally used to adorn the chapel where the Count was buried. El Greco, one of the parishioners, received the commission. He agreed to complete the painting in nine months in time for Christmas (1586). He was required to cover the archway from top to bottom. El Greco made the deadline. He signed the work on the handkerchief in his son's pocket. He also painted some Toledo nobles in the crowd. Count Orgaz's soul looks like a translucent baby being guided into heaven.
Passed right by the Iglesia Santo Tomé, but we quickly turned around. It's tucked away on a side street. Inside is El Greco's Burial of Count Orgaz. Incredible work of art. El Greco is in it as is his son. I love how he controls the way your eye reads the story. We spent 10-15 minutes in there. For a few minutes, Andrea stood in front of it all by herself. She loved it ... since it's her favorite work of art. Alas, no photos. Flash or not.
When Count Orgaz died in 1312 he left a substantial amount of money to Santo Tomé for its enlargement and adornment. However the money didn't immediately go into the designated coffers. Two hundred years later after Andrea Nunez, a priest, sued for the money it was finally used to adorn the chapel where the Count was buried. El Greco, one of the parishioners, received the commission. He agreed to complete the painting in nine months in time for Christmas (1586). He was required to cover the archway from top to bottom. El Greco made the deadline. He signed the work on the handkerchief in his son's pocket. He also painted some Toledo nobles in the crowd. Count Orgaz's soul looks like a translucent baby being guided into heaven.
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| Mudejar Tower of Santo Tome. |
Toledo is made for wandering. We stumbled upon a street that had candy and pastries on all sides. It was like being in the movie Chitty, Chitty, Bang, Bang! We decided to try marzipan since Toledo is famous for it. Andrea had a cafe con leche and I had some water. We tried five different kinds of marzipan.
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| What I will fondly remember as Candy Street. |
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| Looks delicious. What shall we try? |
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| Three of these were made by nuns. Don't ask me which :) |
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| Candy! Can you find our "stow away" in this picture? |
We wound our way back through the labyrinth of streets to the Plaza de Zocodovar. Andrea was sad that one thing she looked for was no where to be found. Not to worry we have a couple more days for that scavenger hunt. We rode the ZotoTram around the city. Great views. Rick Steves suggested sitting on the right hand side. Andrea & I shared facing benches with four other ladies.
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| Plaza de Zocodovar |
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| Academia de Infeteria |
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| Puente (Gate) de Alcantara spans the Tagus River |
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| The Alcazar |
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| I like this view. The town spilling downward toward the river. |
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| Serpentine path at the foot of the cliff. |
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| Puente de San Martin is a medieval bridge. |
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| A series of escalators and covered walkways allow visitors to park in a subterranean garage. |
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| Our tram offered unobstructed views. |
Oops #1. Andrea got sunburned. First order of business after a brief hotel stop was to go to a pharmacy. The pharmacists were VERY concerned ("our sun is powerful") when they saw her. We bought some medicine to relieve the burn.
Oops #2. Andrea's toe was hurting her. We won't be going to a nice restaurant. Something close and simple instead.
World Cup ... Again
We opted for Pan & Co. We ate bocadillos and fries chased by Cokes. Guess what? They had a big screen television that was televising, what else, the World Cup: France v. Mexico. There was a Mexican family (mom & 3 kids) watching as well. They had plenty to cheer about because Mexico got two goals and France scored none. We left just before the match ended. As we walked by the bar near our hotel you could hear singing. Men had their arms wrapped around each others shoulders. Tomorrow we leave for the south of Spain.
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