5. Viva la Catalonya!

Walked up Rambla de Catalonya, right 1 block on Gran Via and then left on the Passeig de Grácia. En route we stopped to pickup donuts and water for breakfast. These donuts are a little different (but excellent) from what we’re used to. Andrea said her dipped chocolate was similar to the hard shell chocolate that you put on a Dairy Queen cone.

Block of Discord

We passed by Casa Lleó Morera, Casa Amatller (looks like a Netherlands stepped gable roof) and Casa Batlló (it’s roof glistened like blue and green verigated scales. It is remniscent of the tale of St George and the Dragon). Was each architect was trying to out do the next? The street is appropriately named Block of Discord.

Casa Milá (La Pedrera, or "The Quarry")
La Pedrera is magnificent. It was designed by Antoni Gaudí for Roser Segimon (wealthy widow of a Catalan who went to America, struck it rich and then returned home) and her second husband Pere Mila. It was designed to be an apartment complex with the Milas having the main floor. Because the building has a self-supporting stone facade, the residents were able to demolish walls without worrying about effecting the structural integrity of the building. I forgot my camera, so Andrea shot this masterpiece. I've included some links for the curious. http://www.tuppenceforthebirds.com/casa-mila/ 
The Entrance. The door is amoebic-like (Andrea said it reminded her of the catacombs). The tile work were ceramic scales. Predominantly green and rose hues.
The Apartment is filled with period furniture, beautiful floors, undulating walls. The accent colors throughout are a brownish rose and light green.
The Attic is made of cavernous brick arches which held Gaudí museum displays (3D models of his buildings and the natural forms that were inspirations (conch shells, honeycombs, scallops).
The Terrace. WOW! It's a rooftop playground. Lots of steps, chimneys covered in broken ceramic tile, fantastical totem-like spires. It begs to be played upon. Only the stairs are flat everything else is curved. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Casa_Mil%C3%A0.jpg Took a picture of a French family (mom, dad, 2 little boys). Drew one of the spires. Midway through drawing the youngest came up to me. Gave him a hug. He was a delightful cherub with blond curls and impish, twinkling eyes. 

Lunch

As we walked back to our hotel we picked up some bocadillos (baguettes that are heated). Andrea’s was veggie with brie cheese, mine was jamon (ham) and cheese. We also picked up a 1,5 liter bottle of water (Andrea says you are welcome, Dad). 

Getting There From Here

At the hotel we picked up our itinerary and headed off to El Cortez Ingles. One the 3rd floor is a travel agency. We purchased train tickets for the first half of our stay: Barcelona to Madrid, Madrid to Grenanda, Granada to Sevilla. It was so easy. The travel agent gave us her name and number if there were any questions. Perfect! We don’t have to do anything else but find the right gate and train. All smiles, we went back to the hotel for a 13:30 siesta. 

Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya (MNAC)

Lost and found. After we woke we went off to find the MNAC on Montjuic, the area where the 1992 Olympics was held. We took Bus 55. I should have listened to Andrea. The bus driver said to stay on the bus but we should have gotten off at the Olympic exit. We left the bus 5-6 stops too late. Luckily we found 2 people willing to help. (1) A 20-something butcher who happily pantomimed how to get back to Paraliel (which sounded like parallel to me). Don’t worry, Kelly, we left him behind. Then we headed off in the right direction through a park where kids were setting off pop caps. Asked another lady to confirm the MNAC direction once on Paraliel. We rode up escalators to the MNAC.

Andrea

Colorful yet quirky.

A small slice of the Med.

The Museum. The MNAC is Barcelona’s answer to the Prado. The Romanesque area is a collection of frescoes from all over Catalonia. We also visited the Gothic, Baroque and Modern wings. In Modern 2, we saw furniture designed by Gaudí and paintings by Picasso.

At last! The MNAC! We approach from the back.

Stunning and swirling.

Over-the-top ornamentation in the lobby.

Natura morta

El Triomf del Dia Sobre la Nit Precedit de l'Aurora by Antoni Caba
(my guess? The Triumph of Day Over Night Preceded by the Dawn)

Dama amb vestis de nit by Roma Ribera

A chair by Gaudi for the house at Passeig de Gracia, 43, Barcelona

Tile by Gaudi. Architect and interior designer.

No Invitation To This Party. Staff were busily setting up a formal event in the stadium. There was a 3-tiered cake and an elevated white baby grand piano. Lots of security and catering people buzzed around. The room was exquisite but had lots of scaffolding obstructing the views. An enormous pipe organ graced one side of the room.

A wedding? Event for patrons? Your guess is as good as mine.

Quality assurance.

Baby, oh baby! Center stage.

Power Shopping to Power Napping. In the MNAC shop,  I found espresso cups with Pantone colors, “Things Overheard in a Museum”and postcards that became 3D models of Gaudí's works. Bought a 1€ map in the Plaza de España and we hopped Metro red Line 1 to return to our hotel in Plaza Catalunya.

The MNAC looms atop Montjuic. The entrance impresses.

Evening Tour of the Barí Gotíc (Gothic Quarter) with Hi! This is Barcelona!
We shoehorned in a 30 minute nap before our “Hi, This is Barcelona!” guides, Theresa and Christina, appeared. I had discovered this boutique tour group in one of my travel magazines. I thought it would be a special treat to spend 3 hours on a personally guided tour of the old town. We'll end the night with tapas.

Theresa and Christina were our guides for the evening.

Cloister. We started off within the Roman walls. Christina convinced one of the workers to let me slip in and shoot the Gothic cloister. Christina was very persuasive. He didn’t want to do it at first.

Dramatically lit cloister.

Picasso and the Saranda. A Picasso frieze graces the exterior walls of the Architecture & Design school. They created it from a sketch since he refused to return to Spain while Franco was in power. One of the sections depicts children dancing the Saranda. We heard some music. Christina said it was Saranda music. She showed us the steps - an elegant version on the hokey pokey. Left toe in, Right toe in, Left toe in, 3 steps and do it again. Sometimes you raise your hands and jump. As we moved into the plaza in front of the Sé (the Cathedral) we discovered “professionals” performing the dance. The women who are serious about this wore farmers' sandals. We also saw some paper mache Giants being paraded through the plaza.

Picasso drew children dancing the Saranda, an elegant cousin of the hokey pokey.

Scaffolding doesn't entirely hide the grandeur.

Post Office. A relief tells the story of the Spanish postal system. In theory it should be fast like birds, but in reality it’s more like a turtle.

Andrea and I rubbed the turtle for good luck.

Street Performer. A Pavorati-like operatic singer complete with scarf had a following of about 20 people. Singers get permission from the city to perform. They are granted a specific time and location to perform but first they must prove they are skillful enough.
Sobering Courtyard. We visited the San Felip Neri courtyard. On January 30, 1938, 42 innocent people (among them 20 children) lost their lives trying to take refuge in the church. They were seeking shelter from Franco's aerial bombardment of Barcelona. This neighborhood is written about in The Shadow of the Wind. 

Courtyard of San Felip Neri

It should have offered safe and peaceful respite.

Scars from the grenade.

Pastries made by nuns. Bought 3 for 3,50€. We ate these Sunday morning for breakfast. The legend is that the basement is the Jewish baths although this isn’t true. Romantic, candle lit. One of Christina’s favorite haunts.

Too good to pass up. We have to eat SOMETHING for breakfast tomorrow.

Christina descends into the basement.

Unfinished cathedral. Has the 2nd biggest rose window.
Cocoa. Dulcinea for hot chocolate
Oldest art gallery. Is the location of Picasso’s first art show.
Tea Stores
Synagogue. It was obvious that two Americans wanted to join (hijack) our tour but Christina lowered her voice and we moved on.
St George sculpture. There was a dragon that was eating people and generally making life miserable for the people. Eventually the dragon steals a princess. Now the king is mad! He wants the bravest knight to kill the beast. Enter stage right our hero, George. He kills the dragon and its blood spills to the ground. Of course he wants to marry the beautiful princess, but he doesn’t have a ring. A red rose blooms from the dragon’s blood. George picks the rose and gives it to his lady fair. April 23 is Spain’s Valentine’s Day in honor of St. George. The red roses spill from every crevice. Books are also given as gifts. You give roses to your girlfriend or wife. You also give roses to your female coworkers. Someone came from Japan and found the practice endearing. They took it back to Japan and now there’s a town that has this kind of Valentine’s Day as well. Isn’t that sweet?
Light and Laughter! As we approached the square the lights came on. Christina did it just for us (ha!). As we were looking around we saw a limo pull up with guys dressed like bees. We think maybe it was a bachelor party. I gave up taking pictures. Although it stayed light a long time, when the sun did set it was fast.
Mount Taber. The highest point in the Gothic Quarter, is tucked into a small calle (street) with a plaque commemorating its peak.
Unicorn gargoyle
Museum
1761. The oldest store in the city sells candles.
Church built in 55 years. Volunteers carried stones from Montjuic. Promised heaven for their back-breaking sacrifice.
September 11. An eternal flame commemorates a Sept 11th when many Catalonian soldiers died at the hands of Spanish soliders. It burns in hope that Catalonia one day be its own country.
The Med. We walked down to the harbor. I ran down to touch the breaking waves of the Mediterranean Sea. Andrea joined me in my run across the sand. I love the smell of the salty air.
Tapas. Our final stop? Tapas in Barceloneta in a place the locals frequent. We arrived about 5 till 11. The kitchen closes at 11, but Christina had called ahead our orders. We sat in a non-smoking section by a window. We munched on tomato bread, grilled goat cheese over asparagus, papas bravas with cheese, artichoke hearts and fried calamari. They had fixed a non-alcoholic sangria -- basically fruit juice with mango, pineapple and strawberries floating in it. And then ... surprise! ... They served Andrea a molten chocolate cake with raspberry cream. They put a lit candle on top and said "Happy birthday!" I was so excited since I won’t get to share her 18th birthday with her. Finished our meal with tea for me and coffee & cream for Andrea.
Home. We took the yellow line to Passieg de Gracía, which as you know from the start of the day is just one block up and one block over from our hotel. I wrote down notes so I wouldn’t forget this jam packed day. Thankfully my foot held up! Unfortunately the tea prevented me from sleeping well and I awoke groggy the next day.