12. Alhambra to Sevilla

Alhambra (Red Castle)

Getting There and Getting In. Our tickets for entry to the Palace were for 10am. Although I had already paid online for the tickets, we still had to pick them up. Stephanie, our concierge at the Hotel Anacapri, suggested that we not wait later than 8:30 to leave for Alhambra. We left at 8 am. We caught #30 red and white mini bus. There were only 7 stops before it terminated at Alhambra. Yay for Andrea finding the right line/queue! Those with reservations go first. The folks purchasing tickets at the door wait for the reservations to be worked. We rented audio guides for 4 euros each. They were worth it!

Fortress. We strolled past the medina to the fortress. It's odd to walk along these now silent ramparts. I looked down onto the area where the soldiers lived. Their baths looked similar to those in Pompeii. The mountains beyond Granada still have snow. I wonder, is there ever enough for them to go skiing?
Andrea climbed two towers, while I climbed one. In the Torre de la Vela, she saw a bell that was rung when the Moors surrendered and Boabdil left Spain. In past years, if a single girl rang this bell it was believed she would marry within that year. We walked through the ivy-covered Jardin de los Adarves.

Onward to the Medina (Marketplace).

Medina

Manicured gardens

Import taxes were charged at the Puerta del Vino (Gate of the Wine).

The fortress watchtowers now house birds.

View of Granada beyond.

Barrio Castrense was the military barracks

Torre de la Vela

Andrea on the ramparts.

Jardin (Garden) de los Adarves

Snake-like vines shaded the path

The Palace. We queued up at 10 am for entry into the palace proper. Some paint still remains here and there on the ceilings. The stone masonry inspired Escher's designs. Within these walls, calligraphy is art. Light and shadows define and hide. What tales these walls could tell!

The script that looks like a "W" is the word for Allah

The Oratory was used for worship

The Mexuar

Andrea framed.

Sometimes used to by the king to meet with the council or to grant audiences.

Geometric or floral designs. None of the art represented a human.

Women of the harem could see without being seen.

Andrea gets a shot

Reflecting pool.

Myrtle bushes give this courtyard its name

Portico arches front a scalloped central arch

- Court of the Lions
We're here during a restoration period. We can't see the garden with the spouting water & the Court of Lions in its entirity. The lions and the fountain have been taken away for the processes of structural, environmental and biological restoration. Two of the lions are in the museum in the Carlos V Palace (Andrea thinks they are copies since they weren't roped off).
An engineering marvel normally rests in the center of this courtyard. An alabaster basin is supported by twelve lions wrought from white marble. In its initial state each hour, one lion would have water flow from its mouth. Lions symbolized strength, power and sovereignty. During one restoration the fountain was taken apart and since that time the hydraulic system hasn't functioned. Maybe during this new attempt they will be able to restore it to its previous glory.

Court of the Lions ... without the lions.

Restoration doesn't diminish the grandeur of the carvings.

These highly decorative ceilings are called artesonado

Best view in the house.

- The Hall of the Abencerrages. The Abencerrages were a prominent family in Granada. Legend has it that one of them fell in love with a royal female. He was caught scaling the wall. In retribution, his family was brought to this beautiful apartment and massacred.

Hall of the Abencerrages

The ceilings drip stucco stalactites

- Hall of Justice

Hall of Justice

- Hall of the Two Sisters
The two sisters are two marble slabs that are part of the pavement. The walls contain arabesques overlaid with calligraphic quotes from the Koran.

- Where Washington Irving Slept. Initially his Spanish Sketch Book was released in 1832. It was revised in 1851 and retitled Tales of the Alhambra. The work weaves together description, myth and history of this palace.

The audio guide reminisces about Washington Irving's visit

Various views

Inner courtyard

Granada below.

Ancient city wall.

A moment.

Generalife Gardens. The gardens were peaceful and cool. The roses were just past their prime.

Detail from the Palacio el partal

Flowing water lends serenity.

Rose garden

Spike Tower

Late bloomer

Carlos V Palace. The emperor wanted to summer at Alhambra in comfort. Thus this palace was built. Currently it houses a museum and hosts summer performances/musicals.

The more ornate second level has Corinthian columns.

Hi Andrea!

One of the twelve lions from the fountain.

Neptune Plaza Redux

We went back to the same plaza for lunch. This time I had spaghetti (Andrea said it tasted like spaghetti-o's. She was right.) for the primo course. For the secondo I ate a chicken leg and thigh. Afterwards Andrea and I bought some ice cream. I willingly parted with 1,90 euros for orange and dark chocolate gelato. We sat in the cool of the hotel, out of the sun, until it was time to take a taxi to the train station. While waiting for our boarding call, Andrea took her siesta: Imagine her sitting on a bench and leaning forward onto her luggage. Andrea rapidly assimilated into the Spanish practice of siesta. I'm did guard duty while updating my journal. Our train for Sevilla departed at 17:05.

Regional Train

They didn't check our ticket or luggage before we boarded. The conductor came through and punched a divot in our tickets. It was that simple. No television on this train but the trip is only 3 hours long. The seat is comfy and attached (unlike the one I sat in from Madrid). I'm so happy this leg of our trip is direct. When I first checked the RENFE website it appeared we'd have to change trains.

Sevilla

Arrived at 8:00 and it’s still light outside. The Santa Justa train terminal is huge with its own mall. We arrived at the same time as a group of middle school students. Their families came to pick them up. Excitement and joy were in the air.
We took a taxi to our hotel (8,30 euros). As we entered the front door we spied a flamenco show to the beside our hotel. We ate a late dinner to us but early in Spain. We enjoyed Spanish omelets (potato quiche) while we watched Denmark v. Cameroon. Denmark won!